It might not seem like a big deal to most people. It was just two ribs. But that small change makes a world of difference in an industry that’s been built on speed and efficiency.
Author, business owner and third-generation meat professional Kari Underly on Thursday led a pork fabrication demonstration for attendees of Iowa Pork Congress in Des Moines. Titled “Many Moments of a Hog: Let’s Get Creative,” the session aligns with the National Pork Board goal of driving pork demand by reaching younger consumers and changing mindsets about pork.
“We’re really transitioning the mindset as we talk to consumers toward the idea of pork as an ingredient versus being the center of the plate,” says Neal Hull, director of domestic market development for the , National Pork Board, while introducing Underly.
The Loin Opportunity
Like in commercial processing, Underly started the work by breaking through the ribs to separate the shoulder from the loin. Unlike at a packer, Underly made the break between the fourth and fifth ribs. The standard break in the U.S. is between the second and third ribs and is designed to maximize loin length.
“This creates a loin problem,” says Underly of the longer break. “But let’s not call it a problem. Let’s call it a loin challenge or opportunity.”
While the loin was shorter, the cut resulted in a larger brisket, a cut Underly feels has great opportunity. Underly also showed how to cut coppa steaks from the copicola, or collar muscle, called the “money muscle” by BBQ enthusiasts.
Cuts like these are not always feasible in commercial packer facilities because of the necessity of maintaining consistency and line speed. But they could be opportunities for retail stores willing to hire and train skilled workers, says Hull.
“We’ve just got to start thinking differently about the process and the way we do it because if we keep doing things the same way and expecting a different result is called insanity,” Hull says.
Finding a Use for “Every Little Piece”
Part of Underly’s inspiration for getting creative with meat cuts came while she served as a judge for three years the National Pork Board’s America’s Pig Farmer of the Year program. The experience taught her about pork production and helped her learn about the challenges faced by local butchers.
“They bring in the whole animal, and they have to sell every little piece,” says Underly. “That’s what turned me on to some of these cuts.”
Underly strives to create opportunities for professionals trained in the art of butchering, just as she learned the art from her father at her family’s butcher shop in Indiana. By creating careers – rather than “just jobs” – Underly believes the industry can draw talented young professionals.
“When we moved our production to the center of the country and we automated, we got efficient and those skills that my dad possessed were no longer valued,” says Underly. “So what has happened is that the skilled pay is the same of somebody that who works line. I’m trying to help restore the missing middle in honor of my dad.”
Learn about Underly’s Range Meat Academy online certification courses at rangepartners.com.
